Palomo Spain Proves Again That Beauty Knows No Gender

Is it Hot in Here? Nope. That’s Just Palomo Spain SS ‘24 

By Wyatt Keleshian

Voulez-vous coucher avec moi? Is what everyone will be saying to you when they spot you strutting the streets in your Palomo Spain SS ‘24 silk pants and matching feather and lace top. For his Spring-Summer 2024 collection, designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo gagged NYFW with his boudoir inspired looks that are utterly oozing with playful androgyny and lusty silhouettes. There is no other word for what the collection is other than beautiful. And beauty is something that Palomo is playing with a lot in this collection. He shows that being “beautiful” is not just for women, but for all genders. Beauty becomes not just something feminine, but something everyone should strive to have.

The looks were playful, fun, and jazzy. An F. Scott Fitzgerald wet dream. The show opened with a series of stunning white ensembles, any of which I would be glad to walk down the aisle in. I am particularly fond of the opening look, with its flamenco pants and feathered waisted top that effortlessly cascades down the catwalk. And the spaghetti straps are something I didn't know I needed. We really need to see more spaghetti straps on men. 

Another stunning look from this part of the collection is this draped gown with an intensely boned corset and bralette. First of all, a bralette on a man (genius!), but also the way this dress fits the masculine proportions is absolutely phenomenal. These looks accentuate parts of the male body that are not usually accentuated, such as the waist and collar bone. I love how Palomo explores the body, and how he designs not for gender, but for aesthetic beauty. Yet while he holds a modern approach to gender, Palomo does not fear a historical reference, particularly when it comes to the rich and gilded glamor of the Spanish Renaissance. His sequined patterns echo the complex and rich dresses of the Spanish Golden Age. Except instead of claustrophobic, corseted fire-hazards, Palomo’s garments are shifty, loose fitting, and flowy (they are also completely sheer, revealing the models’ briefs underneath).

Androgyny is a big part of Palomo Spain’s brand identity, with focus being not on the gender of the wearer, but on how sexy they can be. The SS ‘24 collection’s title was “Cruising in the Rose Garden” (making an obvious reference to the queer practice of “looking” for sex). Aesthetics surrounding sex and sensuality are a large part of this collection, with many of the looks echoing evening wear and lingerie from the jazz age. And with the show being presented in the glamorous Plaza hotel (where many a celebrity have coucher-ed), Palomo proves his mastery in navigating not only fabric, but also on his ability to shine light on cornerstone aspects of queer culture and desires. 

As the collection went on the looks became less Sophia Coppola Marie Antoinette, and more Baz Luhrmann Moulin Rouge, with the pinks and whites fading to reds and blacks. In this half of the collection, Palomo plays with texture and fabrics, juxtaposing sheer voile with hearty denim and utilitarian leather. I am particularly a fan of the leather corsets and the half shirt-half jean pants situations. These looks are sexy, but not in a frilly way. More in a “I have been to a Plaza hotel orgy” kinda way.

While the clothes were certainly the highlight of this collection, it is also worth taking a gander at the mouth watering accessories. Like the dresses, tops, and corsets, Palomo proves that accessories too have no gender, putting male models in strappy ballet flats and pointed toe red pumps (which i now desperately need). Bijoux was also a big part of this collection, with realistic rose necklaces and earrings complementing the sweet sexiness of the garments. On top of everything else, models wore feathered collars and headdresses, which somehow feel like a combination of the jazz age, Marie Antoinette France, and Elizabethan England all at the same time, and you know what, that combination is doing wonders for my eyes. Another accessory to drool over are the clutch bags in the shape of oversized roses, each with a long leather stem enabling you to hold them like an actual rose. Such attention to detail is simply astronomical. And how can I forget about the jock straps slyly peaking through the sheer shift tops. Genius. 

Now that I have given an (admittedly brief) rundown of the collection (I could literally talk about this collection for hours), I want to talk about my favorite look from the collection. While much simpler than some of the other looks, I feel that look 36 best encapsulates the feeling of the collection, and is one of the more wearable pieces. It is still sexy and androgynous, but it is also sleek. This collection is all about grace and beauty, but also carnal desire, and I think this look encompasses all of those ideas. The sheer red top that delicately exposes the model’s abs is simply drool worthy. And the expertly tailored pants are a masterpiece. This look is the Palomo Spain look. 

Look 36

Palomo Spain truly represents everything I look for in fashion. It is witty, playful, and sexy. I think it is clear that I am deeply obsessed with this brand, and I look forward to watching Alejandro Gómez Palomo grow and explore as his collections continue.

It is truly a Palomo Spain world and I am just happy to be living in it.